Tiered problematics in circular design

Tailoring multiplies circularity challenges, especially when a values-based stance against the use of animals as resources is also part of one's reflection. As a micro-entrepreneurial brand, we have to contend with and think through multiple tiers in product development.

First tier. Fabrics and materials in small quantities
Access is the first constraint. Low minimums for certified, traceable materials remain hard to secure. The first solution here is deadstock fabrics through platforms like Melbourne-based Circular Sourcing, which help keep existing textiles in use and reduce upstream impact. However, this does imply legacy choices from other brands, and constrains decision-making to material quantities and availability. For other materials, direct digital sourcing bypassing agents is a growing avenue. However, due diligence on claims and certifications can be elusive here.

Second tier. Trims and hidden materials
Haberdashery and trims decide recyclability more often than the shell fabric. Shoulder pads, fusings, buttons, labels and thread can block fibre recovery or drive costly manual disassembly. The takeaway is to select components as a system, yet the difficulty of finding mono material trims cannot be overstated. Issues around small quantities remain relevant here, especially as there are far less options within the sustainable haberdashery space than there are textiles.

Third tier. Pattern-making and sampling practices
It is important to recognise the waste that happens in the pattern-making and sampling stages, even more so when seeking to use novel threads or fusings. Testing adds costs, and applications can be misunderstood or overlooked when trust hasn't been established. It also means re-testing after pressing and cleaning. Testing is however crucial. While none of this reads well in a margin model, all of it is relevant at the garment’s end of life. This stage cannot be overlooked.

Fourth tier. Certification and sourcing
Not every supplier is a manufacturer, and sourcing upwards of seven (7) components for a single garment, let alone an entire capsule collection can be extremely constraining for a small brand. As such, securing certifications and signatories can near impossibility. 

Fifth tier. Production
We choose to work mainly on a made-to-order basis as the traditional linear supply chain model does not align with what we want to see in the world. The mainstream fashion system follows a take, make, waste pattern, where materials move in a straight line from extraction to production and eventually to landfill. This model depends on large volumes of raw resources and routinely produces unnecessary waste and overproduction. Unsold inventory carry an important environmental and financial costs, and made to order allows us to avoid the waste that is built into mass production cycles. Reducing unnecessary manufacturing is a key part of creating a more sustainable fashion system, conserving resources and preventing overconsumption.